4r100 valve body schematic makarede, download and read 4r100 valve body. 2005 Suzuki Reno Manual Transmission. Software Engineering And How To Break Software. Com.opensymphony.xwork2.actioncontext Jar File more. Extension lower valve body spacer plate as illustrated in figure 16. 4r100 valve body schematic pdf download. And operation manual for e4od and 4r100.
Hi folks, I have a 2001 F250 7.3 4x4 4r100 trans. I'm the one who started the thread 'another 7.3 blowing smoke'. The smoke is gone, but during my first test drive, the trans wouldn't shift into 3rd. Reverse, 1st and 2nd work fine, so my SSA and SSB are working. I need to pull my valve body and check that 2-3 valve.
No biggie there, but my question is about those check balls. I have the manual, I know what size goes in what place. When I drop the valve, all those balls are going to come out. How are you guys putting them back in from beneath the truck so they don't fall in your face? I'm thinking a dab of grease or something to hold them in place while I put the gasket and valve back in? What do you guys do? So first, when just taking the main valve body out to check the 2-3 valve, most of those check balls stay in the trans.
I had forgotten that not only is there that big gasket, but also a steel spacer plate that keeps most of them in there. There are 4 balls that come out but they're easy to put back in on the bench. I also didn't get a satisfactory 'a-ha' moment when checking the valve. It seemed that the valve might have been stuck initially but started moving too soon to tell for sure, and I never actually saw any debris or anything.
So, since I'm fairly certain everything inside the trans is ok, what's left is to put it back together and give it a go. I'll post up what happens.
96' F350 4X4. E4OD tranny running Amsoil synthetic, 1 big tranny cooler and tricumulator springs and accumulator valve. Autometer guages, homemade intake, TS 6 position Chip (tuning by To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts., Factory AIC, A/C mod, MBRP 4' Exaust, BDP Stage I injectors, Brakesmart trailer brake controller, T/C lockup switch Soon to be installed: Innercooler (sittin at the shop), Big Oil, Built Tranny, Coolant Filter, HX hose, and some others.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. You don't want a manual because manuals are so inefficient on shifts.
Granted the word efficiency being used to justify an auto seems strange [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] but for quick clean shifts with no loss of power, boost or momemtum, you can't beat an auto. And with the TC locked you can start to approach the efficiency of a manual tranny. As far as this goes in practice however: You can do much better than a manual valvebody. You have an elecroniclly controlled tranny that affords you the option of having variable shifting charactoristics on the fly with constantly changing patterns and abilities. The best bet is to simply use a stand-alone module so that you can regain control over this vast amount of flexibility. The PCS module for one offers you the ability to manually shift the transmission with shift charactoristics as well as other variables such as TC lockup being referenced off of any number of currently available sensors such as tps, map, vss.whatever you deem necessary to get the results you're looking for.
The shifting input can be any electronic device you can dream up, wether it be buttons, joystick.whatever you want. Amrev Outlook Email Recovery Keygen here. And beyond that, you can actually kill the power to the manual input device and the module with revert to any automatic shifting schedule that you have programmed and act just like a full automatic. For a concrete example, look at the 'Tiptronic' shifting that's happening in most of the luxury sportscars.
This is the same in essence and as far as the user's concerned. So to answer your question. Doing it manually with a valvebody would be crude and horrably inflexible compared to having a quality stand-alone module that can be programmed by you to either shift like grandpa, or throw the back glass all across the tailgate and anything in between, with the option to switch between these modes with a switch similar to a 'tow/haul' button except the number of profiles is not limited to only two. This is what I will be doing with a 4R100 here shortly in my superduty.